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I have '63 Evinrude 3hp, longshaft version. I made a complete tune-up to it two years ago, but I didn't open the powerhead (crankshaft side) This summer when I was boating, something went suddenly broken between driveshaft and crankshaft. Crankshaft didn't turn driveshaft (and propeller)anymore. Lower part of the motor is ok. When I took ignition plugs away and turned flywheel, I could see that it moved both pistons in cylinders as it should. Could it be crankshaft connection to driveshaft gone broken somehow? Driveshaft top head (to powerhead) is strange -foursquare, totally different than in my '65 Johnson 3 hp, which has a normal boron (star-like) head on it's driveshaft.
I would try to take the lower unit off and start the motor to see if it will run. If there is no problem with the powerhead, you may need to go through the gearcase. What does the lower unit gear oil look like? It could be that the seals went bad and you got water in your gears which might lock them up after sitting a while. You might want to shop eBay to see if you can get a good parts motor or at least one with a good lower unit that you could shop out. Replacement parts are available, but you could quickly find yourself spending way more than you should. First try taking it all apart and cleaning everything up and put back together with new seals.
Isnt there a shearpin on this one
First of all, let me start by thanking you for starting and maintaining this great web site!
I recently acquired the engine above. It was said to have operated well when last run.
However, after trying to start it unsuccessfully, and doing some inspection, I have my doubts. That being said, I checked for spark and verified that. However, I noticed the carb dribbling fuel from the high speed needle packing nut connection. Also, lots of fuel in the carb throat area.
I disassembled the carb, and discovered the float settings were off. The float is the old style cork. I am assuming at least some of my no start problem is being caused by flooding due to the main float valve not closing properly, either due to a bad/dirty seat, and/or improper float settings.
So, I have ordered a carb kit and new float. Here are my questions:
1) The best information I could find on float settings was: no more than 1/32" from level with top edge of carb body. And 1 1/4" float drop. Is this correct?
2) I havent found much on needle packing. Could the packing be bad, thus contribute to the leaky carb? What is the fix for new or replcement packing?
I always just the the float so it is level. At level, the needle should shut off the flow of fuel into the bowl. I don't measure anything.
The new carb kit will include needle packing which should be installed. Your carb should not leek when finsihed which would be a safety hazard.
ok, thanks for the response. The carb kits I have been looking at did not include replacement packing.
I am assuming I am on the right track as far as the 'no start' problem is concerned.
Here is some replacement packing: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_at?imprToken=SkxdL8dTeRyLD5isJEtUSQ&slo…
Going to try my hand at restoring my grandfather's lightwin, looks to be a 54 from the color. First timer at this. Ordered all the parts you recommended for a tune up (carb rebuild, plugs, points, condenser, coils, impeller. Thinking I need to replace the lower unit seals too, as the engine has not run in 25 years or so. Not seeing a kit that includes the seals I need. Any suggestions as to a kit or where is the best place to get them? Also planning on the starter rope and spring.