I have '63 Evinrude 3hp, longshaft version. I made a complete tune-up to it two years ago, but I didn't open the powerhead (crankshaft side) This summer when I was boating, something went suddenly broken between driveshaft and crankshaft. Crankshaft didn't turn driveshaft (and propeller)anymore. Lower part of the motor is ok. When I took ignition plugs away and turned flywheel, I could see that it moved both pistons in cylinders as it should. Could it be crankshaft connection to driveshaft gone broken somehow? Driveshaft top head (to powerhead) is strange -foursquare, totally different than in my '65 Johnson 3 hp, which has a normal boron (star-like) head on it's driveshaft.
I would try to take the lower unit off and start the motor to see if it will run. If there is no problem with the powerhead, you may need to go through the gearcase. What does the lower unit gear oil look like? It could be that the seals went bad and you got water in your gears which might lock them up after sitting a while. You might want to shop eBay to see if you can get a good parts motor or at least one with a good lower unit that you could shop out. Replacement parts are available, but you could quickly find yourself spending way more than you should. First try taking it all apart and cleaning everything up and put back together with new seals.
First of all, let me start by thanking you for starting and maintaining this great web site!
I recently acquired the engine above. It was said to have operated well when last run.
However, after trying to start it unsuccessfully, and doing some inspection, I have my doubts. That being said, I checked for spark and verified that. However, I noticed the carb dribbling fuel from the high speed needle packing nut connection. Also, lots of fuel in the carb throat area.
I disassembled the carb, and discovered the float settings were off. The float is the old style cork. I am assuming at least some of my no start problem is being caused by flooding due to the main float valve not closing properly, either due to a bad/dirty seat, and/or improper float settings.
So, I have ordered a carb kit and new float. Here are my questions:
1) The best information I could find on float settings was: no more than 1/32" from level with top edge of carb body. And 1 1/4" float drop. Is this correct?
2) I havent found much on needle packing. Could the packing be bad, thus contribute to the leaky carb? What is the fix for new or replcement packing?
Going to try my hand at restoring my grandfather's lightwin, looks to be a 54 from the color. First timer at this. Ordered all the parts you recommended for a tune up (carb rebuild, plugs, points, condenser, coils, impeller. Thinking I need to replace the lower unit seals too, as the engine has not run in 25 years or so. Not seeing a kit that includes the seals I need. Any suggestions as to a kit or where is the best place to get them? Also planning on the starter rope and spring.
I just received a family boat that hasn’t been in water for 25 years I got it started once took a ride now it won’t turn over. It will start by using starting fluid but motor won’t keep running.
i did purchase a manual for 1962 Scott’s motor and need some advice what I should do next.
i changes sparks plugs have new battery I’m struggling on what I should try next.
any advice or should I take it into a place for tune up?
I have a 10 hp 1957 Johnson Seahorse with a double line fuel system. I want to convert it to a single line system. What parts do I need other than a fuel pump? If I need a carburetor, what is the nomenclature for this part?
First, thank you for this forum! This is my first attempt at rebuilding an outboard and this page has been an amazing resource. This is my Johnson CD-14, just like the one detailed in your project, and I used every picture and instruction you posted. Simply indispensable.
I converted from a leaky pressure tank to a modern single-line tank, made my own mounting bracket for the fuel pump above the carb and managed to route all the fuel lines so everything fits with ample clearance and I can put the cowling back on.
I just did my first start up, and it runs, but the fuel filter I added to the incoming fuel line between fuel tank and the fuel pump is draining and not being refilled by the pump while the motor is running. I pump the lines with the bulb on the tank and see the filter fill, as well as the glass bowl filter on the carb. Once the motor is running, the filter in the fuel line goes from full to empty. I cannot tell if the fuel pump is providing any fuel or if it is just a trickle, but it seems to not be working.
The only thing I can think is that I only filled the 3 gallon fuel tank with one quart of fuel for this test run, and maybe the pickup "straw" in the tank is not submerged enough, but I wanted to see if anyone has thoughts. I will likely mix up a full gallon of fuel in the next week or so and try again.
Thanks again everyone. I have really enjoyed exploring this web page and forum.
This is how I modified the intake manifold to create the pulse for the fuel pump. It is a small piece of aluminum I cut with a hack saw and shapes with a file. It has a small piece of the old manifold gasket behind it to create a seal (I replaced all the gaskets when I rebuilt this).
The fact that you can pump the bulb and get fuel makes me think your tank is OK. I would suggest two things:
First, I would check that you can feel a good pressure pulse on the line going to your pump.
Second, I would eliminate the fuel filter from the equation until you get things working and then add it back in.
Those are great pictures and everything looks correct. Once you have things working, I would like to include your comments on the actual page. Keep me posted.
This is the fuel pump I am using, as well as a pic of the bracket I made out of a sheet of aluminum stock. It mounts to the motor using two of the screws that hold down the starter recoil assembly. I had to make a few brackets before I managed to find a shape and position that allowed all the fuel lines and the pump to fit under the cowling, but it all fits and the lid goes on and looks like it should.
‘66 Lightwin will just start and run. But moving the throttle up/down kills engine unless adjusted extremely slow. New plugs and carb rebuilt. I’m thinking maybe it’s the spark retard/advance? Any advice?
Greetings from Vancouver British Columbia. I would first like to start off by thanking you for putting such a site as this together. Without your laymans explanations and pictures I would not have been able to take on my first project, that was my fathers 1958 Evinrude 3 hp. It had sat around in storage for 55 years, but with your site it is up and running again. I enjoyed doing it so much that I got the bug and now can’t stop finding more of the older 1950s style/colour to fix up. The satisfaction of having it running again as well as the conversation at the boat launch with people makes the whole process enjoyable. With your help all the motors in the picture are great runners once again.
Thank you again
1957 Viking 5 hp.
1955 Johnson 5.5 hp.
1958 Johnson 5.5 hp.
1958 Evinrude 3 hp.
I'm a novice with all engines, especially outboard motors. I have a 1966 3hp Evinrude, model # 3602. My motor runs for about 10 seconds and that's it. Restarts fine but runs for only 10 seconds not matter choke or throttle settings. I read that the gas tank vent can cause this if not open when operating. Perhaps that's my problem. Local old timer is only one that will work on it and he is backlogged 4-5 weeks. He advised that I take the carburetor off and bring it in to save me time and money and he would cook it. I've taken off the engine cover and looked over the carburetor and it looks a little challenging for me to take it off and then there's the greater challenge of putting on back on correctly. Any advise you can give me would be appreciated including video of doing this or a repair manual?
HCG isn t used all the way through PCT, normally it s used to kick start the PCT and then a few more shots during the 1st or a 2nd week buy cialis online no prescription Asang smiled and said, Junior male enhancement ad with pics brother is a person who likes trouble Gu Min shook his head, Of course not
This can be accomplished by approaching all blood as potentially infectious and using a combination of strategies, i order cialis online Grachtchouk, Benjamin L
buy cialis with paypal The ipsilateral breast is at especially high risk for breast cancer within 5 years of diagnosis, and long term risk is elevated in both breasts
Chi square analysis or Fisher s exact tests were used to compare categorical variables, and Student s t tests were used for normally distributed continuous variables buy cialis online india Cao W, Zhou QG, Nie J, Wang GB, Liu Y, Zhou ZM, Hou FF
buy clomid tablets online. Breast health guideline implementation in low and middle income countries LMCs Breast healthcare program resource allocation
In comparison to anthracyclinerelated heart failure, trastuzumabrelated cardiac dysfunction is typically less severe, and more readily reversible with discontinuation of therapy and or standard medical management for heart failure cheap cialis no prescription
These slightly elevated lesions develop mostly on the lips, tongue, palate, nasal mucosa, ears, palms, fingertips, nailbeds, and soles buy cialis online no prescription
Elisha uxWWmScdVAa 6 17 2022 buy online cialis Recent insights into mechanistic variability, however, lend credence to the concept that the average effects in heterogeneous populations may obscure therapeutic efficacy in some subgroups and the lack of such efficacy in others
Comments
Evinrude 3hp 3303S longshaft problem
I have '63 Evinrude 3hp, longshaft version. I made a complete tune-up to it two years ago, but I didn't open the powerhead (crankshaft side) This summer when I was boating, something went suddenly broken between driveshaft and crankshaft. Crankshaft didn't turn driveshaft (and propeller)anymore. Lower part of the motor is ok. When I took ignition plugs away and turned flywheel, I could see that it moved both pistons in cylinders as it should. Could it be crankshaft connection to driveshaft gone broken somehow? Driveshaft top head (to powerhead) is strange -foursquare, totally different than in my '65 Johnson 3 hp, which has a normal boron (star-like) head on it's driveshaft.
I would try to take the…
I would try to take the lower unit off and start the motor to see if it will run. If there is no problem with the powerhead, you may need to go through the gearcase. What does the lower unit gear oil look like? It could be that the seals went bad and you got water in your gears which might lock them up after sitting a while. You might want to shop eBay to see if you can get a good parts motor or at least one with a good lower unit that you could shop out. Replacement parts are available, but you could quickly find yourself spending way more than you should. First try taking it all apart and cleaning everything up and put back together with new seals.
3303s
Isnt there a shearpin on this one
Evinrude 25 hp Big Twin (Model 25018) No Start/Leaking Carb
First of all, let me start by thanking you for starting and maintaining this great web site!
I recently acquired the engine above. It was said to have operated well when last run.
However, after trying to start it unsuccessfully, and doing some inspection, I have my doubts. That being said, I checked for spark and verified that. However, I noticed the carb dribbling fuel from the high speed needle packing nut connection. Also, lots of fuel in the carb throat area.
I disassembled the carb, and discovered the float settings were off. The float is the old style cork. I am assuming at least some of my no start problem is being caused by flooding due to the main float valve not closing properly, either due to a bad/dirty seat, and/or improper float settings.
So, I have ordered a carb kit and new float. Here are my questions:
1) The best information I could find on float settings was: no more than 1/32" from level with top edge of carb body. And 1 1/4" float drop. Is this correct?
2) I havent found much on needle packing. Could the packing be bad, thus contribute to the leaky carb? What is the fix for new or replcement packing?
thank you!
alex
I always just the the float…
I always just the the float so it is level. At level, the needle should shut off the flow of fuel into the bowl. I don't measure anything.
The new carb kit will include needle packing which should be installed. Your carb should not leek when finsihed which would be a safety hazard.
ok, thanks for the response…
ok, thanks for the response. The carb kits I have been looking at did not include replacement packing.
I am assuming I am on the right track as far as the 'no start' problem is concerned.
thanks again
alex
Here is some replacement…
Here is some replacement packing: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_at?imprToken=SkxdL8dTeRyLD5isJEtUSQ&slo…
Evinrude lightwin
Going to try my hand at restoring my grandfather's lightwin, looks to be a 54 from the color. First timer at this. Ordered all the parts you recommended for a tune up (carb rebuild, plugs, points, condenser, coils, impeller. Thinking I need to replace the lower unit seals too, as the engine has not run in 25 years or so. Not seeing a kit that includes the seals I need. Any suggestions as to a kit or where is the best place to get them? Also planning on the starter rope and spring.
Sports Scott 1962 will not start
I just received a family boat that hasn’t been in water for 25 years I got it started once took a ride now it won’t turn over. It will start by using starting fluid but motor won’t keep running.
i did purchase a manual for 1962 Scott’s motor and need some advice what I should do next.
i changes sparks plugs have new battery I’m struggling on what I should try next.
any advice or should I take it into a place for tune up?
The River Runt needs TLC
5.5 HP Johnson 1960 Model CD-17 Project by Bosse "Bo" Petersson
Just added/imported from facebook site to PROJECTS Menu.
5.5 HP Johnson 1960 Model CD-17 Project by Bosse "Bo" Petersson - Stockholm, Sweden
2019 projects
hey everyone wanted to ask everybody about your projects in 2019 and how they are going thanks everyone happy new year
Conversion for double line fuel system to single line system
I have a 10 hp 1957 Johnson Seahorse with a double line fuel system. I want to convert it to a single line system. What parts do I need other than a fuel pump? If I need a carburetor, what is the nomenclature for this part?
Thanks,
Lewis
Fuel Pump Conversion - Pump Not Working?
First, thank you for this forum! This is my first attempt at rebuilding an outboard and this page has been an amazing resource. This is my Johnson CD-14, just like the one detailed in your project, and I used every picture and instruction you posted. Simply indispensable.
I converted from a leaky pressure tank to a modern single-line tank, made my own mounting bracket for the fuel pump above the carb and managed to route all the fuel lines so everything fits with ample clearance and I can put the cowling back on.
I just did my first start up, and it runs, but the fuel filter I added to the incoming fuel line between fuel tank and the fuel pump is draining and not being refilled by the pump while the motor is running. I pump the lines with the bulb on the tank and see the filter fill, as well as the glass bowl filter on the carb. Once the motor is running, the filter in the fuel line goes from full to empty. I cannot tell if the fuel pump is providing any fuel or if it is just a trickle, but it seems to not be working.
The only thing I can think is that I only filled the 3 gallon fuel tank with one quart of fuel for this test run, and maybe the pickup "straw" in the tank is not submerged enough, but I wanted to see if anyone has thoughts. I will likely mix up a full gallon of fuel in the next week or so and try again.
Thanks again everyone. I have really enjoyed exploring this web page and forum.
Jake B, Illinois
Intake Manifold "conversion"
This is how I modified the intake manifold to create the pulse for the fuel pump. It is a small piece of aluminum I cut with a hack saw and shapes with a file. It has a small piece of the old manifold gasket behind it to create a seal (I replaced all the gaskets when I rebuilt this).
-Jake B
The fact that you can pump…
The fact that you can pump the bulb and get fuel makes me think your tank is OK. I would suggest two things:
Those are great pictures and everything looks correct. Once you have things working, I would like to include your comments on the actual page. Keep me posted.
Fuel Pump Mounting Bracket
This is the fuel pump I am using, as well as a pic of the bracket I made out of a sheet of aluminum stock. It mounts to the motor using two of the screws that hold down the starter recoil assembly. I had to make a few brackets before I managed to find a shape and position that allowed all the fuel lines and the pump to fit under the cowling, but it all fits and the lid goes on and looks like it should.
-Jake B
Looks great. Much nicer…
Looks great. Much nicer than mine!
I'm working on a jw-11 3hp…
I'm working on a jw-11 3hp Johnson would anyone have a parts diagram for the pull start? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for visiting…
Thanks for visiting.
Here is a parts manual. Here is a list of available parts for your Jw-11.
You may also want to look at my 3 HP Tune-Up Project.
Tom
Lightwin balky throttle
‘66 Lightwin will just start and run. But moving the throttle up/down kills engine unless adjusted extremely slow. New plugs and carb rebuilt. I’m thinking maybe it’s the spark retard/advance? Any advice?
The Stable
Greetings from Vancouver British Columbia. I would first like to start off by thanking you for putting such a site as this together. Without your laymans explanations and pictures I would not have been able to take on my first project, that was my fathers 1958 Evinrude 3 hp. It had sat around in storage for 55 years, but with your site it is up and running again. I enjoyed doing it so much that I got the bug and now can’t stop finding more of the older 1950s style/colour to fix up. The satisfaction of having it running again as well as the conversation at the boat launch with people makes the whole process enjoyable. With your help all the motors in the picture are great runners once again.
Thank you again
1957 Viking 5 hp.
1955 Johnson 5.5 hp.
1958 Johnson 5.5 hp.
1958 Evinrude 3 hp.
1966 3 hp Evinrude - taking caburetor off
I'm a novice with all engines, especially outboard motors. I have a 1966 3hp Evinrude, model # 3602. My motor runs for about 10 seconds and that's it. Restarts fine but runs for only 10 seconds not matter choke or throttle settings. I read that the gas tank vent can cause this if not open when operating. Perhaps that's my problem. Local old timer is only one that will work on it and he is backlogged 4-5 weeks. He advised that I take the carburetor off and bring it in to save me time and money and he would cook it. I've taken off the engine cover and looked over the carburetor and it looks a little challenging for me to take it off and then there's the greater challenge of putting on back on correctly. Any advise you can give me would be appreciated including video of doing this or a repair manual?
Thanks.
Dan'l Markham
zithromax for copd
cialis patent australia
tadalafil is generic for
cialis can i have wine
tadalafil fda approval year
cialis structural formula
cialis how often can you take it
cialis and herpes
is it dangerous to take tamsulosin and tadalafil together
cialis wholesale prices
generic cialis ingredients
cialis indian brands
cialis commercial photo booth
clomiphene citrate challenge test procedure
spironolactone and lasix in cirrhosis 40 100
tadalafil troche vs pill
tadalafil cipla 5 mg
does walgreens sell cialis
average cost of generic cialis
viczuxxd
can you build cialis dependent
how long is cialis effective after the expiration date
buy cialis online singapore
does alcohol affect the effectiveness of cialis
yfwyqgza
uqfcezws
does viagra or cialis work for women
can you buy cialis in south korea