Here is where you can leave comments about this site, boats, motors, fishing, and other topics, or just simply say hello and tell us where you are from. Please, no political, jokes, or anything not appropriate for this site. You must Login if you wish to leave comments.
You can now login with your Facebook account.
Need Help by you experts. I have been going about getting this old engine going, I found out a few things from the old 52-54 evinrude manual but it says nothing about what is happening with this .After running it in a barrel of water and then storing it on a sawhorse I found a small puddle of gas had leaked out a tiny hole down under the horizontal fin like piece just above water intakes and exhaust. Is it supposed to come out here? And will running the carb dry before shut down ( as per old manual) prevent this? I'm a newbie with this engine and need help ...Also I'm trying to find a free manual download ...thanks j bert
It sounds like water is getting into your lower unit oil through a leaking oil seal. No gas below the powerhead, but the water/oil leaking back out probably looks like gas. These are rubber seals that go around the driveshaft. It is common to replac...See More
Here is the list of parts I put together for your JW-17, including the driveshaft oil seal. http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/motors/Johnson%203.0%20HP%201961-…
Thank you ttravis . I'm sure it is gas it has the same green color my mixed oil and gas has and it evaporates quickly leaving the greenish blue 2 stroke oil . I couldn't read your entire post for some unknown reason ..could you copy and paste it to a e-mail . I'm at email@example.com . I had taken off the lower shroud to see if I could locate the source when I noticed it was coming out the tiny hole stbd side just below where the shaft connects to the prop assembly. It took overnight to manifest itself . Any other ideas? It almost seems like its like an overflow thing. I have both valve and vent shut ... It has done this twice...Seems to be running fine ??? Thanks for the comeback ...
Not sure. It could be leaking down the driveshaft from the powerhead. You may need to take the powerhead off to see if that is where it originates. If you need a part number, let me know, and I will try to find it for you. I am in the process of entering parts for all the older engines, but rings and seals will come later after tune-up parts. I guess the big question you have to ask yourself is how much is it leaking and is it worth worrying about. I don't think it is hurting anything to have a small leak. You may want to ask the folks at iboats.com where you might get a better answer.
Well I found this morning that more gas had leaked out . not much but enough to put an oil sheen on the water! We will be taking boat / it to Mission Bay , SanDiego to visit Grandchildren and they are very nuts down there about any pollution. Someone reports you for spraying poison to keep ants out of your RV down there because a dirty old coot (mud hen) might eat a poisoned ant!!! When you say " power head" I take it that, you mean the entire starter/gas tank and ignition assembly? Looks like I am going to have to . I'm starting to think that the gas shut off valve is leaking . Since the vent is shut it takes a while for the vacuum caused by leaking gas to get enough air to leak . That's why it happens every 24 hours or so. I see no place on the outside of the carb that looks wet. Does the carb have an overflow system that drains down to that hole? It may be that not only the shut valve leaks but the vent valve and the needle valve in the float bowl too. Dirt . I am definitely going to rebuild the carb and i will replace that seal you told me about as well. I have never worked on a marine engine , or a 2 stroke, but I have torn many a carb apart successfully .. Any tips would be appreciated.. Thank you Travis ! J Bert
The powerhead is fairly easy to remove. I did this in my 5.5 HP Johnson tune-up project which you can read about here: http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Johnson/Remove%20Lower%20Unit%20a…
I also have a writeup on a 3 HP Evinrude which is basically the same as what you have. You can read about that here: http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Evinrude%203%20HP%20Lightwin%20Ou…
I would suggest reading both because the carb and ignitions are so similar.
Have fun in California with the grandkids. I will be in Wisconsin on Lake Michigan. I have a link for up there as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xC7QiRaJTbI&t=55s
I need a new shutoff valve for my 3 HP Evinrude. When I find one, I will let you know.
I really appreciate your taking the time to help me like this ...I love this little engine its only 10 years younger than I am and fits my 14 foot wooden drift boat perfectly .I'll keep you posted on my progress...I have too many things on the burner right now . Jeremy
As I guessed the shut off valve leaks , I removed tank reinserted the valve and pored in mineral spirits to wash it out . I let it sit with vent open and it leaked and with the vent closed it still did but barely. Surprisingly only a tiny bit of rust/dirt came out and these two parts of the cap safety .someone must of yanked it long ago and this is probably why the vent doesn't seal completly..
On your 5.5 HP you had linkage to take off . I don't see any on this one and there are only 5 screws. There is a little plate just above the seam that I haven't removed yet .
I would rip out and intall new plug wires. I got mine at Tractor Supply. I can send you a link tomorrow when I am more awake. Save the old wires to measure their length.
http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/parts/18-5225%20Spark%20Plug%20Wi… or use the site search and plug in "18-5225"
OK my sentiments exactly. I'm going to proceed with removing power head and then get to ordering parts ...I'll check back in if I need help ..thanks again!
Take a look at this!! someone really built this up(chafing gear) with wire ties and one hose clamp and who knows what else , when it moves to the fast position the wires are pinched in half because such a huge bulb is made by the materials. then he has greased it so it moves . What would you do ? I want to tear it off and come up with something better .
Top cylinder 60lbs ,lower is 50 . will pull head and check/replace gasket and resurface if needed. Are rings still available for this engine?
- Hello Travis , I finally got some time to work on this again .. I rebuilt the lower gear case... It took me 3 hours to dig out the old seal ! I actually started regretting taking it out since there was no water in the gear box oil . Nevertheless the new seal and new impeller are in . Do I need to permatex gasket seal the power head to the lower body? Also the head gasket , OK to permatex this too? I've never done a marine engine or 2 stroke so I'm asking first. Thanks
Put your permatex away! You don't need it to seal the powerhead to the body, or the head gasket.
Glad to hear you are making progress. You'll be an expert when you are done.
OK thanks , I'll just do a good clean up job on them . My carb kit should be here shortly ..I think the seal was an original ,it was brass colored ,and literally welded in after 55 years !! I'm going to go with the present compression 50 and 60 and hope that it improves when I get it back together .The head gasket,though intact was ready for changing and I'm hoping the Marvel Mystery Oil treatment improves the rings sealing ability. I had a 31 Model A Pickup that had a cracked head and the water rusted all 4 pistons in place. I removed the head and filled the cylinders with MMO. After a werk I stuck the handcrank in and took a 8 pound sledge and started trying to bang the crank around and get things moving . The first day it moved a few inches and every day a little more and finally it went a complete turn .About 3 months later I was able to hand crank it and slapped another head on it, timed it and it started right up!!! A Marvel and testament to the durability of the Model A and MMO. Thanks Tom , I'll let you know how it turns out .
Hi Tom , This afternoon about 5 finally got into my shop to work . The carb kit came in the mail . The old float needle valve had no clip and a metal tip rather than rubber ..I had a he'll of a time getting the clip to work and finally bent it a bit and got it installed. I suppose the purpose of it is to make sure the needle drops along with the float. The original valve had no groove on top...So the flame arrester and carb are on , head installed, and the power head back in lower body. The Evinrude manual on your site says to put the engine on its side to fill the gear case. I did so ...Question...?? Should I set it up straight and take out the top plug to bring the level down to the hole or will it be ok as is ? I filled it to overflow in the horizontal position .I still have the plug wires to deal with. I also need to do another gas valve leak test before installing the tank and valve...I found quite a bit of gunk in the valve and hope it will now seal..Did you ever find a new valve source?
AS far as the lower end oil goes, I usually just put oil in the top plug, with the motor in the vertical position until it starts to come out.
It seems like I have seen fuel shut off valves on eBay, but I have not worked on my 3 HP in a while. I think this is just a standard 1/4 inch copper or brass plumbing piece. I did the following search on Amazon to see if there is something that will work.
Yes I found one on ebay. $55!!!! The ad was written in Russian so I'm leery of it and I don't want to pay 55 bucks . Oil drained to fill hole . I'm going to town today to a hardware store that has everything I've ever needed ...This may be the one time they don't.
Good morning- I have just about completed the tank conversion project on my 1956 5.5hp. I am running into issues with the correct fuel line/vacuum line. Could you tell me what the correct size you use, I am needing to feed it through the tiller arm and the hose I have is to thick.
The fuel line used by Johnson/Evinrude is either 3/8 or 5/16 inch inside diameter (ID). It is just typical fuel line you can get at any automotive parts store.
Here is a link where you can get 5/16 ID 5 foot line on Amazon.com
Here is a link for 1/4 inch ID 5 foot line:
Thank you. I did buy some 1/4 but could not route it through the bottom ceiling where the two line system was. It looks like the line you used on the site is pretty thick how did you mount to the tiller arm?
Bottom of the cowling.
On my project, I replaced the two line fuel connector with a single line fuel connector on the motor cover. I did not run the fuel hose itself through or under the bottom of the motor cover.
I did not find this on Amazon.com, however, they do have some on eBay. Search for
"393334 fuel connector"
I have a 1956 qd-17 10 horsepower i am not getting fuel. I have spark and i am getting fuel to the in the sediment bulb but that's it I have pulled the carb apart and the jets are clean. any suggestions
Thanks for visiting. You have a good question.
Wiith the carb off, put your thumb or palm over the intake manafold and pull the starter rope. You should be able to feel suction at that point. If not, check the reed valves. If you can feel the suction at the manafold, make sure your carb gaskets are air tight. The smallest leek is like a pin prick in a straw. It will cause the carb not to draw in fuel and air. Make sure you have a new Carb Kit when you put the carb back together. Also might want to check the float needle valve.
Thank you Tom for all the great info on rehabbing a 3hp outboard. I bought my first boat motor, a 1964 Evinrude 3hp Yachtwin for $60 which needed a pretty thorough overhaul. Luckily the carburetor had been taken care of, but it needed a lot of other attention. The points and condenser seemed fine but the coils were bad as were the plug wires. The cylinder head cover had a gap corroded through to the water jacket and the exhaust cover plate had several holes eaten through, but the gear case was good. I reworked the ignition and rebuilt the carburetor and it fired up and it runs pretty darn well. Just now I ordered a new impeller and the exhaust cover plate and gasket. I can’t wait to get out and try it on the water.
I did want to pass on two Youtube links that I found also helpful.
(John Bright’s) Johnson & Evinrude Carb repair 3hp 50s & 60s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2bvvnotA1k
(cajuncookone) Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTN8Ag_aj-8 (long 7- 10 minute segments but thorough)
Tim in Maine
I don't think there are any interchangeable parts between the two. If the 1941 Johnson 3.3 HP runs, replace the fuel line and enjoy it. It will be difficult finding parts for that old motor. Evinrude no longer supports it, and Sierra Marine does not make parts for motors that old. There are vintage outboard sites as well as google where you may find parts. They made that motor for several years.
Your 1958 Johnson 3.0 HP JW-14 was and still is a popular motor. There are plenty of parts available. Here is a link that lists common parts.
I would say it is well worth trying to fix up and get running.
I have a 1941 evinrude 3.3hp and a 58' johnson 3hp.
Are there any compatible/exchangeable parts?
The 3.3 hp runs but fuel line leaks and the 3hp doesn't leak or run.
Thanks for the help.
I'll let you know what happens though it may be awhile.
I have the fisherman 5.5 1956. new coils and points all look good. The points are grounded whether open or closed. I dont think this is right. With the coil and condensor wire off, they are not grounded
Any suggestons? both coils test 8ko to the plug from green wire. Spark is intermittent.
What resistance reading do you get across the condensers? It should be high. Some pictures would help.
I have a Johnson 5.5 Hp CD-20 with No Spark. The Back Round is I got this motor not running and was started to be repaired by someone else. They installed Two New Coils, Condensers and Points. Could not tell if replaced the Spark Plug wires for sure- caps are new , the wires look in excellent condition. There is no Spark at all, not even a weak spark if you hold the plug and hand to the case. I have looked it all over and cannot find any issues. I have read the 1954-1964 Evinrude 5.5 HP Tune-UP Project Ignition System Tune-Up. Looked at the pictures and tried to see if something was installed incorrect. Rechecked Gap was Ok. I cannot find what I am missing. Took picture and compared to the Tune up picture, do not see anything different. I could see one with no spark but not both. Any help would be appreciated.
I would take an ohm meter and test the condensers and coils. Also, check the spark plug wires to see if you have a grounding or connectivity problem.
Greetings: I recently purchased a partially disassembled 1965 3hp Johnson but am having trouble re-installing the water tube. There is a small plastic "bracket" at the motor assembly end of the water tube ... but I can't see where to install this end into the motor assembly. Do I have to remove the motor assembly from the column to re-install this water tube.
Any advice would be welcomed.
I have not worked on my 3 HP for a while so I can't remember how that works. I think there are some youtube videos out there that may show you what you are looking for, or maybe someone who has had the powerhead off recently can chime in and answer your question.
I am rebuilding a 53 3hp Johnson. Should I use anything on the bolts to minimize corrosion, like grease or locktite etc? The same with the joints on the lower shaft?
I always put anti-seaze on the bolts, especially when there are different metals involved. You will thank yourself next time you unscrew the bolt. Messy, but good stuff. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B0…