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I think the problem is either with the needle and seat, or the adjustment of the float.
I would try adjusting the float so it is slightly downward so it will shut off the flow of fuel sooner.
If that doesn't work, then I would install a new needle, clip, and seat. Make sure you replace all three from the same set. Mixing parts between sets can result in a mismatched fit and not work as well. You probably do not need a new carb kit if you just got one.
If I had your model number, I would provide a link. This is probably it 18-7038 Sierra Carburetor Needle and Seat
I don't think the Jets would cause the carb to flood the way you described.
Sounds like you are almost there. Don't give up.
Excellent advice. I disassembled the float assembly, adjusted the float, and reassembled everything. Now it runs beautifully. Third time was a charm. Thanks.
Is your float level, or maybe a little below level? You may want to try to adjust it to make sure the needle seats all the way when there is fuel in the bow. I have a picture somewhere in my tune-up procedure. Also, use the needle and seat that came with the kit together. They should stay as a pair.
I am new to this site and I thank you for all this great info. I am working on a Johnson CD-11. I am trying to convert it to operate with a single hose fuel tank. I have mounted a Mikuni fuel pump and used the 7/16 plug method to get a pulse. I am using clear fuel line and I am seeing that the pulse line is gradually filling with fuel as the motor runs. After about 5 min. the fuel pump quits working. I can drain the fuel from the pulse line and it will run again until more fuel gets into the pulse line. I considered that the fuel was coming from a leaking fuel pump diaphragm, but it seems to be coming out of the motor. Has anyone else had this problem?
What do you mean by 7/16 plug method?
Let me rephrase that. I used a vacuum cap, which I believe was 7/16", it fit snug, to plug one of the check valve holes after removing the check valves. I think I followed the instructions correctly.
I don't know what would cause that. I never used clear fuel lines. I don't see how the pulse line could fill up with fuel unless maybe your fuel pump is bad.
I know this is not a solution, but I have done this procedure myself and I know that many others have since I published this procedure over ten years ago. Eventually, after several years of fun, my 5.5 motor gave out because the upper crankshaft seal went bad and I have not found a replacement. I plan to get in some good garage time this winter and take another crack at it.
Thanks for the input. I will try repairing or replacing the fuel pump. I don't own a two hose pressure tank, so I am highly motivated to make this work. With the pulse line routed this way, I may be able to better see where the fuel is coming from.
HI, I'm working with the same motor and same fuel pump, and having he same issue. The fuel is coming from the intake side. Did you ever figure out a resolution to this issue? thanks
hey guys i have the 3hp lightwin and last time i posted i had a bad head gasket. i got a new one and it ran great first pull actually. It started first pull without choke witch was odd to me because it had not been started in a while (any thoughts on that?) but now the main problem is the starter spring snapped so i got a new one and need help on how i put it in the recoil assembly.
thanks everyone happy to be back with outboard people
Lots of good YouTube videos on this. I have done this procedure myself and I can tell you it is not pretty! It took me a lot of trial and error as everything is bass ackwards.
Do yourself a favor and take lots of pictures with your phone/camera so you can seel how it goes back together.
Also be careful as that spring can be dangerous. Make sure you do not let it fly loose. You will wish you had a third arm and hand.
i got it in it wasnt easy but i got it on another thought what would the value of my motor be would anyone be able to give me a estimate. 1957 evinrude lightwin 3 not restored only thing wrong is chipped paint
It gives me great satisfaction knowing that you were able to get your motor up and running, possibly with some help form this site. Anytime someone like you fixes up an old boat motor so It can be enjoyed, makes the world a better place.
Unfortunately those little motors are not worth a whole lot in terms of money. To me and others, they are worth a great deal because they are wonderful motors for all kinds of small boats and perfect for a kid to learn on. You just can't buy anything new for under $800 that has anywhere near the quality of your little lightwin. The saying "They don't make them like they used to" is true. With all that has at being said, I would guess you could get between $300 and $400 on eBay.
If really wan't to sell it, I wold like to see you list in in the "For Sale" comments on this site. You could be the first to do this!
There are several for sale on eBay. One of the things I am working on here, right now, is putting in eBay links to all the parts and motors (thousands of them) to help people find what they need for their project. Using the links here helps to generate funds to keep this site and projects going without becomming a personal expence.
Also, I am a member of The Antique Outboard Motor Club, Inc. where they also list motors for sale and there are plenty of people who would drive in the snow across several states to pick yours up.
As for myself, I get the greatest pleasure in simply fixing up and giving boats and motors away to deserving members of younger generations. This site generates enough funds to support my hobby and occational generosity.
In any case, that little Lightwin you fixed up deserves a good home and a owner who will appreciate it.
i used a lot of help from your website i was very happy to find it with all of this information. i listed it on the for sale page here also. i had a lot if fun fixing up my lightwin and look forward to another project just like it might keep this on elonger and use it once or twice. im a younger guy 14 actually and its awesome you do with your projects.
Fantastic! I would have guessed you were much older. You sound impressive for your age. The experience you gained will serve you well in life. My only suggestion is for you to include your location in the add, at least city and state or zip code so people will know if they can go pick it up. I recommend you keep the motor and find a boat to put it on, but that's just me. I wish I could get back some of the things I sold over the years. I am looking forward to hearing about your next project.
thank you very much and the is very true thats the boat i bought i use it for testing outboards and trips
thanks thats a good idea to add a location on the ad.
What is the procedure for removing the prop on a lightwin out board? It's a 1959 model 3030.
I purchased a very clean Lightwin 3 recently. I followed the recommended tune up procedure and inspected the impellor. The motor seemed to be very well cared for and was not gummed or crudded up in any way. It started on the third pull after at least 30 years of storage. After a little tweaking, it ran nicely for brief periods because I did not have it in water. I rigged up a tank so that it could run longer and before starting it again. I lubed the throttle mechanism because it was a bit stiff. When I ran it for about 5 minutes at different throttle settings and it started to run rough. I noted a clear rattle sound that was not there before. It is unclear to me if this is a sound coming from inside the engine or from something else like the newly lubed up spark advance housing. The only way I know to describe it is a rattle at higher speed. I started to worry about overheating so I shut it down, waited a few minutes and started it again to hear the same sound. At low throttle it sounds pretty good. Water is coming from the Exhaust port as it is supposed to (I think). I appreciate you folks sharing your thoughts on this. Cheers.
Hard to tell. A video would help a lot. Check the engine covers and overall engine to make sure all the screws are tight. You will get a better idea of what is going on if you run it more. I wouldn't be afraid to run it around in a small lake. Take a paddle. Hopefully, you will not need it!
Thanks for the response.
This site is perhaps the only place where I can say this and know that readers will totally understand. I have a motor....but I do not have a boat - LOL. I bought the motor first, just could not pass it up. So for now, I will have to keep testing it mounted in my recycle bin filled with water. As for the noise, I took your advice and went over everything looking for loose parts. I pulled the recoil and noted that the center nut was loose. When I rocked the mechanism back and forth it sounded like this could possibly be the culprit. The housing seems to amplify the rattle noise like a bell. When I tried to fire it up again the recoil spring broke so I will have to update you all when I sort that out. Cheers.
Having a time finding a replacement for the glass sediment bowl on the above motors carb. Any leads would be fantastic!
I just put these in a month ago
First thanks for the awesome site it has helped me tremendously in restoring my 67 3hp Evinrude. I was able to rebuild the ignition system and now the motor runs.
On to the next problem. Now that I have the motor running I notice that it is really hot - too hot to place your hand on. If I flick water on the head it will evaporate. I followed your procedure and pulled the head , exhaust port cover, and separated the power head from the lower unit. The passages around the cylinder head were pretty clean. I traced the path from the copper water input pipe to the outflow and all appears to be clear. When I run the motor water sprays from the holes in the lower unit. Where else could the water flow be blocked? What should I check next?
Felix. All I know is what is in that article. There are plenty of people that know a lot, and I do mean a lot more than me at https://www.facebook.com/groups/2126052714312567/ I would recommend that facebook group as a place to ask some folks who know what they are talking about.
For me, I had to be quite persistent in tracking down that water path....... Tom
Thanks for the response. I think I figured it out. I had the lower unit off at some point prior to getting the motor running. When I put it back together I didn't realize that the water tube has to fit in a fitting/port down on the impeller housing. The water wasn't actually getting pushed up around the cylinders. I separated the power head from the lower unit poured water into the water intake and then blew compressed air in to force the water through the circuit to make sure the water could circulate.
I hope to test it again after work. Wish me luck.
Thanks for the facebook link!!!
That is a fun little motor to work on. Good luck. I am confident you will get it working. Enjoy the Facebook group. Tell them I sent ya! The guy who started that site started out fixing up a similar motor on this site. Good luck and keep us posted.
Yes - it is a fun little motor to work on. I changed the gear oil on the prop gears before I fired it up again because it was sounding a little noisy. The oil that came out looked like grey mud!! I'm guessing it was probably original. I fired it up again an now it runs really well and is nice and quite. It's ready for a test run on my canoe this weekend.
It was a great motor to learn repairs on as it is easy to handle and work on. I picked it up at a yard sale for $50 a few years ago and let it sit for a while. In the end, I cleaned and rebuilt the carb, installed new points, coils and condensers, replaced the fuel line, cleaned the tank, cleaned the water cooling passage ways (cut my own gaskets for the power head, exhaust port and head), and changed the oil on the prop gears. Parts and materials cost me about $150 - so all in all it was a great and inexpensive project and now I have a great little motor to take me to the duck marsh in the fall. Thanks for documenting your projects. I couldn't have gotten this far without your instructions.
I think I'm hooked and will be looking for another small motor to rebuild - I'd like to get my hands on a 2hp Johnson from the early 70's....
I am glad you were successful. Hopefully, you can pass that motor down to future generations.
I'm just starting my restoration on Lightwin 3HP which I guess is from 1952-1954 as the serial is 3012. I would appreciate information on the paint code or even name of tone and is it available? Also I would appreciate tips on where to get decals for it?
Firstly, thanks for the great website and a great resource. I found that my Evinrude lightwin 3hp has bad spark wires. Can I buy any wires from eBay or AutoZone (as long as they fit of course) and use these? Or do I need to buy specific ones? I assume a wire is a wire and it doesn't matter. Am I wrong?
From my 5.5 HP Project:
Inspect Spark Plug Wires and Replace if Necessary - While you have your stator base off, it is a good time to inspect your spark plug wires for any time of wear or corrosion. In my case, the ends of my plug wires were corroded so I felt it was a good opportunity to replace the spark plug wires. After much shopping around, I found out that the generic 22-inch plug wires sold at NAPA were not long enough. I wound up going to a place called Tractor Supply and bought a set of 4 spark plug wires for around $10. Note that there is a difference between the older "solid core" wires used on antique cars and boat motors and the newer "carbon core" wires used on today's automobiles which cut down on electronic emissions which cause interference with radios and such. You definitely need to solid core wires on these motors. Using the old spark plug wires as a pattern and allowing an extra inch of length, I cut the new wires to length and routed them around the same path on the bottom of the stator plate. I don't know what the rule for replacing spark plug wires is but I figure after over 50 years, they need to be replaced! I've been told that most boat and lawnmower repair places have this type of solid core wire on bulk rolls and can cut off the length you need, put on some boot caps and I am sure they will work well.
I just pulled apart a 1959 3030 lightwin Evinrude followed the tune up and carb instructions here which were awesome thanks! First attempt at any small motor work and have it running pretty good after carb rebuild and replaced everything on the armature plate coils, points and condensers.
However, I have had to tie the armature plate handle to the handle on fuel tank mount in the start position. Because when I pull start, the handle moves lots and often to the stop position. Any ideas is the armature plate catching on the flywheel or something any suggestions to fix?
If anyone else has the same problem the coils were not set far enough away from the flywheel and were rubbing, make sure they line up flush on the cut in marks on the Armature plate. Some people on the Evinrude Johnson 3hp collectors Facebook page were quick to reply.
Sorry, I was on vacation, away from the internet last week when you posted this. Glad you figured it out and thanks for leaving useful information that someone else will find helpful. Tom
I’ve been playing with my newly acquired and reliving 1958 Lightwin 3hp. One thing I’m noticing is the armature plate handle is rubbing pretty hard and wearing a groove. Any ideas on what to do to fix?
I think it is that way by design so that the throttle stays in place. This was replaced by the newer motors spring-loaded throttle that would return to idle if you let go of the tiller handle. Mine does the same thing.
Do you have a service manual or link to one?
I just finished refurbishing my 1966 Lightwin model 3602 with carb rebuild, new points and condensers, new starter recoil spring, fresh gearcase oil and it purrs like a kitten.
The fuel/oil ratio called for in the Evinrude service manual is 16:1. Does anyone have more recent information that may allow use of something different? I'm only asking because my sailboat's Tohatsu M8B takes 50:1 and it would be much more convenient to keep one mix type around.
Of course I always default to the manufacturer's recommendations, unless good data is available showing an acceptable alternative. I have a good amount of experience building and racing 2t bikes, so I do have an understanding of the criticality of proper mix ratio.
Has anyone here used a different ratio with success, or is any updated recommendation available from Evinrude?
I would go with 24:1 or 32:1 if it smokes too much. TCW3 they sell today is better than the old stuff.