Johnson 5.5 HP Seahorse Tune-Up Project

I have looked everything over carefully and cannot figure out why once my whole motor is reassembled everything in the upper unit is free and normal but the pull start is very hard and when trying to spin the prop manually it is very hard. There is no grinding or knocking noise, nothing seems out of place it is just not free spinning... any help is awesome.

I'm replacing coils and points/condenser on a 1956 Johnson CD-13A 5.5hp twin.   

I'm attempting to set the point gamp and timing by the voltmeter method. 

Where do you put the throttle to check the timing and set the point gap?  I've seen some say idle, and others say WOT.  Some say it makes no difference, but that doesn't make sense to me. 

The throttle moves the plate and the timing marks, so it has to make a difference where the throttle is.

What am I missing ?  thanks

I got everything put back in place, lower unit, new gaskets in the carburetor,and new plug. It run for just a minute and died first time and second time just start an died right way.

Can someone please help me ....

Been having fun restoring a my 1960 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 

I have come to a road block.  Cannot find anyone to split the case and hone the cylinders and replace pistons and rings. Willing to try on my own if I could also fine the pistons and rings.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Does anyone out there know the actual paint color code for the maroon colored 1958 Johnson 5.5 h.p. CDL-15 motor?  And if so, what is it?  I am in the midst of rebuilding this BEAUTIFUL motor and after going deeper and deeper into the motor I decided, "What the heck? may as well paint it now as well."  Any help in this regard would be most appreciated.  Thank you!  

I did the fuel pump conversion on a 1955 5.5 HP Johnson Seahorse from pressurized tank to syphon style tank. One issue I found is the vacuum line off of the intake will fill with gas after about 1/2 hour of running. this will cause the fuel pump to stop pumping from lack of the vacuum pulse from the slug of fuel in the line.  Has anyone else ever had this issue, or have a fix for this? 

Did the conversion per the below link instructions. thanks

https://outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Johnson%205.5%20HP%20Seahorse%20Outboard%20Boat%20Motor/Pressureized%20Fuel%20Tanks.htm

Thank you so much for the info regarding the paint color for this 1958 "Seahorse."  I sprayed the first coat of paint just a short while ago and it's drying as I type this.  This website is awesome.  You've turned my rebuild project from "rag tag" into a  much more "professional" project.  Lookin' good! I hope to post a photo soon upon completion.  Thank you again.

Good morning. 

   My dad bought a 5.5 hp (5514) new in 1957.  Being the work-a-holic farmer that he was, we probably used it one time every summer through the 60's and 70's.  It has sat dormant in the barn since I graduated from high school in 1976.  I recently snatched it and am going through your excellent procedures.  I had a question on plugging one check valve with the vacuum cap.  The protocol did not indicate whether, or not, to replace the check valve mechanism after plugging one port.  

  Another knowledge question:  The original system generated pressure that plumbed to the fuel tank.  Now I am installing a fuel pump that is designated as a 'pulse vacuum' pump.  But it seems like I am providing it pulse pressure, not pulse vacuum.  So I have a mental disconnect on this.  I suspect it is a nomenclature issue.  But please educate me. 

   I have done the carb cleaning, am doing the gas tank upgrade, and still need to do the ignition tune-up and the impeller, before the August vacation.  Your protocols and photos have been a god-send.  As a small token of appreciation, and for my future access,  I would like to make a one-time contribution for maintenance of this site.  How can I do that?  

Thanks.  Kirt

I am working on a 1958 5.5HP seahorse and having issues with the timing. Going to replace to points and condensers. I was also looking at the cam follower and as I turn the throttle handle down the cam roller does not stay on the cam mark point in low throttle. At high throttle it wont turn all the way around unless you press where you would hook up throttle controls to the motor. Any ideas on the cam roller adjustment. I can get it to run but it runs rough and wont stay running in gear or at low trolling idle.

The compression is good on the motor at 90 psi in both cylinders. I did a carb tune up on it as well and cleaned and replaced all them parts as in the steps given here. That helped a ton. 

Thanks so much.