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I have looked everything over carefully and cannot figure out why once my whole motor is reassembled everything in the upper unit is free and normal but the pull start is very hard and when trying to spin the prop manually it is very hard. There is no grinding or knocking noise, nothing seems out of place it is just not free spinning... any help is awesome.
Did you put in new seals? Somethimes new seals can make things seem tight for a while. Same with a new impeller. Give it a few hours to break in and see if things improve.
I have not redone seals or anything in the lower unit at all that is why I am so confused.
What happens if you try to turn the flywheel by hand, or wrap a rope around it to try to rope start it the old fashioned way?
Also what happens if you take the lower unit off and try to start it?
I'm replacing coils and points/condenser on a 1956 Johnson CD-13A 5.5hp twin.
I'm attempting to set the point gamp and timing by the voltmeter method.
Where do you put the throttle to check the timing and set the point gap? I've seen some say idle, and others say WOT. Some say it makes no difference, but that doesn't make sense to me.
The throttle moves the plate and the timing marks, so it has to make a difference where the throttle is.
What am I missing ? thanks
I just did a 3 hp lightwin for the first time and that sorta threw me until I looked and saw that although the plate moves in relation to the cam, the points stay with the cam, so it doesn't matter. As a matter of fact, if you overshoot your mark while setting the timing, if you started in the "start" position, you can move your points across the cam in either direction. Anyway, I decided to ignore the position and when I was done, the motor I got for free ran like a top...about $30 in tuneup parts.
So, bottom line, it really doesn't matter, but may be more convenient in some positions than others, based on the task at hand. Happy motoring!
I got everything put back in place, lower unit, new gaskets in the carburetor,and new plug. It run for just a minute and died first time and second time just start an died right way.
Can someone please help me ....
Been having fun restoring a my 1960 Johnson Seahorse 5.5
I have come to a road block. Cannot find anyone to split the case and hone the cylinders and replace pistons and rings. Willing to try on my own if I could also fine the pistons and rings.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Somebody left a comment that they were looking for a 4 part youtube video on restoring a Johnson 5.5. The original comment was lost because I screwed up this site (sometimes happens) and had to restore from a backup that was a couple of days old.
I think this youtube search will get the videos you were looking for.
I will take time to review these later and possibly add to this site.
Sorry, I lost the original comment.
Does anyone out there know the actual paint color code for the maroon colored 1958 Johnson 5.5 h.p. CDL-15 motor? And if so, what is it? I am in the midst of rebuilding this BEAUTIFUL motor and after going deeper and deeper into the motor I decided, "What the heck? may as well paint it now as well." Any help in this regard would be most appreciated. Thank you!
I did the fuel pump conversion on a 1955 5.5 HP Johnson Seahorse from pressurized tank to syphon style tank. One issue I found is the vacuum line off of the intake will fill with gas after about 1/2 hour of running. this will cause the fuel pump to stop pumping from lack of the vacuum pulse from the slug of fuel in the line. Has anyone else ever had this issue, or have a fix for this?
Did the conversion per the below link instructions. thanks
Thank you so much for the info regarding the paint color for this 1958 "Seahorse." I sprayed the first coat of paint just a short while ago and it's drying as I type this. This website is awesome. You've turned my rebuild project from "rag tag" into a much more "professional" project. Lookin' good! I hope to post a photo soon upon completion. Thank you again.