Here is where you can leave comments about this site, boats, motors, fishing, and other topics, or just simply say hello and tell us where you are from. Please, no political, jokes, or anything not appropriate for this site. You must Login if you wish to leave comments.
You can now login with your Facebook account.
So I got a 1952 evinrude lightwin that I've been trying to get started. I've changed gear oil, cleaned fuel tank, cleaned the spark plugs, taken the carb off, then took off the bowl and sprayed the crap out of the whole carb with carb cleaner, and took the bottom assembly off and cleaned the shaft and the water pump. I got it all back together and it has fuel flow. I crank it with a drill and all it does is pop every once and a while but it just doesn't start. I have spark so it's not an electrical issue. I just cant get it started. Being only 15 I dont have the most experience so if you all could point me in the right direction I'd be grateful. Thanks
It also has good compression and I poured some seafoam on the cylinder heads and its soaking now
Just tried to start after seafoam soaking for an hour, pops and smokes alot. Not starting
“Swap plug wires”
I mean that in a helpful way. Everything does have to be right and there are no shortcuts. I am still learning that truth.
Hopefully you read through my 3.5 HP ignition Tune-Up-procedure. Also the 5.5 is the same ignition but both should be read to get the full benefit.
Tell me about the coils, points, condensers, and plug wires. It is well worth the expense to replace all of those parts because they do go bad simply because of age.
Also timing is important. It must be right. Don’ give up. You will get there.
Anyone have part numbers for the lower unit seals for a 55 QD-16 I can not seem to find the correct kit anywhere.
I have a 1955 QD 16 also and from what I read is the lower unit seals are the same as a same year 18 hp as the lower units changed in 1958 on the 10 hp were the 18 hp should have the same seals as the older 10 s.
Try swapping the plug wires top to bottom. If they were backwards and everything else was right you would get an occasional pop, bang, or backfire as you describe. I had this same issue when I was new to working on 2cyl outboards.
I am also 15 but have been around outboards for a while now. This is my experience and there are definitely people out there with more, it’s just my 2 cents
what is the proper compression for a 1977 Johnson 25hp model no 25R77H, and is there a right way and wrong way to read this number on the tester as in how may times do i cycle each cylinder?
I have a 1977 Johnson 25 hp model# 25R77H and I need to know what is a good compression per each cylinder. Also if anyone could tell me what besides the starter do i need to convert from pull start to elec start ie modifications parts to add to do this. Thanks for any help i can get. Im trying to restore boat for our churches use at the kids summer camp, its needed a new floor, The boat is a 1970 Starcraft 14' mariner deep v. so far so good should have floor back in by end of next week and then start in on the motor. Once again thanks again for any info.
Hello, I have recently been buying up these johnson seahorse 10hps because I and fascinated with them and I have been trying for ever to find a seal kit or part numbers for the seals on my johnsons lower unit. I have bought several seals online and they are always wrong.There are two seals that I have part numbers for and a spaghetti seal and a 2 o rings (one for the shift shaft and one for the prop sleeve with the bearing in it). And is there a part number for the brass bushing that holds the shift o ring? Someone must know and be able to point me in the right direction. Any help is greatly appreciated. And feel free to email me firstname.lastname@example.org
P.s. I love what this site is doing. More parts would be a plus.
I have an Evinrude Fisherman 5.5, model 5523. Rebuilt the carburetor before last season. Ran pretty well throughout the summer, but towards the end started having the same problem I thought I fixed. When motoring to the dock the engine will start to bog down and stall, unless I pull the choke partially closed. Idles OK, but needs the choke partially closed to run at higher throttle. Suggestions?
I was wondering if the manual (1952 - 1953) available in a printable form such as PDF?
Are there many differences between the 1955 and this manual.
I have the subject engine and need a lower unit and all the seals would you happen to have these items. Model # RDSL - 28B.
We are selling a lot of those seal kits this time of year on Amazon and eBay. While you have it apart, it is a good time to check out the impeller.
Good luck with your project, and please keep us posted. We would love to see some pictures!
looking for some help please. Have above and need coil / coils plus leads for it.
Does anyone know where I might get these or knows part numbers for them.
Im UK based
thanks in advance.
Hello and welcome! Your Johnson 4B69B is what we in the USA have as the model 4R69, or 1969 4-HP. A nice little motor. Anyway, here is a link to help you find all the parts, including coils. All the parts you will need are widely available at any marine dealer, or use my Amazon and eBay links.
I see no difference between the American and UK versions. As far as the coils and ignition are concerned, this is the same magneto ignition system used on all Evinrude / Johnson motors of that age. You may wish to review both my 3 HP and 5.5 HP projects where I tune-up the ignition which is the same as your motor.
Everything else about your motor and my projects are verry close to being exactly the same and can be found under the PROJECTS menu above.
Good luck and please keep us posted on your project.
Trouble starting my 1980 Johnson 70 hp. New battery and new starter. Was turning over and now its not even doing that. Just clicks. The new battery doesn't really spark much when I hook up the battery. Suggestions??
get load test on battery at local auto parts store like advance auto or auto zone then replace solenoid make sure you get a marine solenoid 12vdc.
i give great thanks to info on converting my older 10hp johnson outboard fuel system from pressurized duel line to single line with adding fuel pump, big help.
I know a lot of people around the world would appreciate some pictures and writeup about it. Maybe a little background on where you are located and how you use the motor. What is the model of your 10 HP? No need to write much, but it would be a nice addition to this site, and would be appreciated. Thanks, Tom.
Hi, just getting started with 3HP Lightwin restoration project. Is it possible to download the Owners Manual and Parts List. If I go to Projects->Evinrude 3HP Lightwin->Owners Manual (or parts list), there is no download link..
Hello I have a 1956 Johnson 15hp and was wondering if someone could give the the correct carb rebuild kit info. I also plan on changing the coils and water pump so if I could get put in the right direction for these items as well this was my dads motor and has been sitting for about 30yrs and I WILL bring it back so whenever I take it out on the lake a piece of dad will be onboard. I am not a mechanic but I will learn this motor so expect more from me in the future I am so glad I found this sight!!!!!
I also wanted to know your thoughts about converting the pressure fuel system to the newer 1 line system?
Thank you Tom I will let you know how it turns out. Do you have any thoughts on converting the fuel supply from pressurized to the modern 1 line system?
I have a 56 15hp Johnson that I have cleaned the carb (new gaskets,float and needle and seat) I removed the intake and reed assembly cleaned all parts and reassembled with new gaskets, performed a compression test and both cylinders are at 95lbs. The issue I am having is it will not start if I remove the air intake chamber and spray fuel into the carb it will start and stay running. I checked the fuel supply and when I use the primer on the tank it fills the glass filter bowl. Is it possible the fuel is not getting from the filter bowl to the float reservoir? Also when I disassembled the carb I neglected to pay attention to where the low and high fuel adjustments were set. Is there a starting point that should be used in regards to how far in or out they should be set and final adjust after starting motor what I did was turn them both all the way in and then install the adjustment knobs at the leanest setting and when attempting to start I had the idle adjustment at 6 oclock and the high at 12 oclock? I hope I havnt given so much info it is confusing for anyone but I thought all would be useful.
I am camping this week and trying to respond with limited internet. I can respond better next week. I believe you start high and low adjust 1.5 turns out. Do not over tighten. It sounds like air is leaking through a gasket. This has same effect as a straw with a pin hole. Hold hand over intake and pull start rope to test for vacuum . I will get back next week.
Hello, new member here.
I just bought my first outboard motor ever, literally the first time I've ever even touched one..😄. It is a 1957 Johnson CD-14in gorgeous condition that started on the first pull, however, it's not pumping water and I have no idea how to fix it, my friend told me that I have to change the impeller. I think I can do it by following the amazing instructions that I saw on here ( thank you so much, it's a Godsend for me) but I have no idea what to order for parts ie powerhead gaskets, o rings, seals etc. Is there a package/kit that will give me all the parts I will need? Thanks for the help.😊
Welcome. Here is a list of commonly available parts for your CD-14 1957 5.5 HP.
Since your motor is running, that should pretty much take care of keeping it running. If there is anything else you need, let me know and I will point you in the right direction.
Enjoy your motor. You can't buy a new one that is any better. That CD-14 is the best fishing/trolling motor ever made. Tom
I have a 3hp Johnson and the timing plate seems to be binding on the base or somewhere. It moves ok for about 5 movements then binds up completely...is there a shim or washer or something missing?
great site! Thanks!