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So I got a 1952 evinrude lightwin that I've been trying to get started. I've changed gear oil, cleaned fuel tank, cleaned the spark plugs, taken the carb off, then took off the bowl and sprayed the crap out of the whole carb with carb cleaner, and took the bottom assembly off and cleaned the shaft and the water pump. I got it all back together and it has fuel flow. I crank it with a drill and all it does is pop every once and a while but it just doesn't start. I have spark so it's not an electrical issue. I just cant get it started. Being only 15 I dont have the most experience so if you all could point me in the right direction I'd be grateful. Thanks
It also has good compression and I poured some seafoam on the cylinder heads and its soaking now
Just tried to start after seafoam soaking for an hour, pops and smokes alot. Not starting
“Swap plug wires”
I mean that in a helpful way. Everything does have to be right and there are no shortcuts. I am still learning that truth.
Hopefully you read through my 3.5 HP ignition Tune-Up-procedure. Also the 5.5 is the same ignition but both should be read to get the full benefit.
Tell me about the coils, points, condensers, and plug wires. It is well worth the expense to replace all of those parts because they do go bad simply because of age.
Also timing is important. It must be right. Don’ give up. You will get there.
Anyone have part numbers for the lower unit seals for a 55 QD-16 I can not seem to find the correct kit anywhere.
I have a 1955 QD 16 also and from what I read is the lower unit seals are the same as a same year 18 hp as the lower units changed in 1958 on the 10 hp were the 18 hp should have the same seals as the older 10 s.
Try swapping the plug wires top to bottom. If they were backwards and everything else was right you would get an occasional pop, bang, or backfire as you describe. I had this same issue when I was new to working on 2cyl outboards.
I am also 15 but have been around outboards for a while now. This is my experience and there are definitely people out there with more, it’s just my 2 cents
what is the proper compression for a 1977 Johnson 25hp model no 25R77H, and is there a right way and wrong way to read this number on the tester as in how may times do i cycle each cylinder?
I have a 1977 Johnson 25 hp model# 25R77H and I need to know what is a good compression per each cylinder. Also if anyone could tell me what besides the starter do i need to convert from pull start to elec start ie modifications parts to add to do this. Thanks for any help i can get. Im trying to restore boat for our churches use at the kids summer camp, its needed a new floor, The boat is a 1970 Starcraft 14' mariner deep v. so far so good should have floor back in by end of next week and then start in on the motor. Once again thanks again for any info.
Hello, I have recently been buying up these johnson seahorse 10hps because I and fascinated with them and I have been trying for ever to find a seal kit or part numbers for the seals on my johnsons lower unit. I have bought several seals online and they are always wrong.There are two seals that I have part numbers for and a spaghetti seal and a 2 o rings (one for the shift shaft and one for the prop sleeve with the bearing in it). And is there a part number for the brass bushing that holds the shift o ring? Someone must know and be able to point me in the right direction. Any help is greatly appreciated. And feel free to email me email@example.com
P.s. I love what this site is doing. More parts would be a plus.
I have an Evinrude Fisherman 5.5, model 5523. Rebuilt the carburetor before last season. Ran pretty well throughout the summer, but towards the end started having the same problem I thought I fixed. When motoring to the dock the engine will start to bog down and stall, unless I pull the choke partially closed. Idles OK, but needs the choke partially closed to run at higher throttle. Suggestions?