Here is where you can leave comments about this site, boats, motors, fishing, and other topics, or just simply say hello and tell us where you are from. Please, no political, jokes, or anything not appropriate for this site. You must Login if you wish to leave comments.
You can now login with your Facebook account.
I can't find any pdf file for that manual. I can point you to eBay where you can buy and download the pdf you are looking for. I think the cost is around $6.00
I think I had good reasons for not having that file on my server, but that was over 12 years ago!
Please let me know how it works out if you buy that pdf from eBay.
Hello there! I just bought my first vintage boat (1952 Hewescraft 14) and it came with a 1955 Sea Bee (Goodyear) 5hp outboard. I think I understand it was made by the Gale div. of OMC. The engine is really clean and appears to be all intact, but I was told it hasn't been run since the mid-80's. I figured a new impeller, coils, and basic tune up is in order before I try to start it. This is my first outboard project. Is there a parts list somewhere for this motor? Best source for parts? model 5D11G. And help or encouragement is greatly appreciated! -Rob
That sounds like a fun project for the winter. I did some looking and it appears that you can use the same ignition parts as I use on my 3.0 and 5.5 HP projects. Johnson and Evinrude used pretty much the same parts on many motors, which works out well for you. I think you can find other engines with a similar carburetor.
That motor is too old to be listed in a lot of the common sources for parts, but that does not mean you can't find parts for it. If you do a search on eBay as I did, you will find many new and parts listed for that motor. I even saw a parts manual there which I would buy if I were you. You can also pick up a lot of clues like part numbers and such. I learn a lot just by looking at parts listings on eBay.
One thing I want to do with this site is hearing feedback from guys like you about the motors you fix up and the parts you put into them to make them work. If I know that a certain part works with a certain motor, I will plug it into my parts listings as an (unofficial match) to help others down the road. Simple things like this can help many people around the world in this same situation so please contribute your knowledge when you are done. This is especially true since I added all those languages.
I don't know where you are located, but I would suggest you join a local chapter of The Antique Outboard Motor Club Website - AOMCI.org
One of my dreams in life is to take an old boat and motor like yours and go to an event like this.
Another great source for old parts is: VintageOutboard.com
Please keep us posted.
Thanks Tom for the site! I live about 40 miles north of Seattle on the Puget Sound. I was lucky to find my motor on the East side of the state where it never touched salt water. I will keep you up to date on my motor as I work on it over the winter. I also want to polish up the aluminum hull of the boat and sand/refinish the oak trim/gunnels. I’ll be towing it behind my 1958 Willys Wagon, so it should be a real time capsule at the boat ramp!
One (probably dumb) question... would it be a bad idea to even try to fire the motor up as it sits? The appears to be good compression when I pull the cord, and the integral tank is empty and doesn’t smell bad. Maybe it doesn’t really need anything? Clean the spark plug, put some fresh gas mix in the tank, drop it in a test tank, and see what happens? Or is that a silly pipe dream begging to damage the motor? Thanks again! -Rob
If you are the kind of guy who has a 1958 Willy's, then you won't have any trouble getting that motor running.
Your question about trying to fire that motor up is a good question that I have not heard anyone ask before. I would think that trying to start that motor would not hurt anything, especially if you are feeding it some mixed gas/oil. You might give each cylinder a shot of WD40 or some lubricant. The more I think about it; I think it would be a very good thing.
I have heard many stories about those old motors starting right up after being stored for many years. It all depends on how well it was put away and stored the last time it was used. Hopefully, they ran all the gas out of the carburetor. A good cleaning would help as well.
Don't expect too much right away. It may run, but that is no indication it will run well when you are out on the water. At the very least, you will need to replace the coils. All coils go bad with time even though you may not see much damage. High voltage with higher RPM and moisture can get into cracks and cause the coils to arc or fail. The newer coils are far superior to the originals.
It sounds like that motor is well worth the $150 or so in parts to get it fixed up and running like a top. I am looking forward to hearing about your progress.
brand new to this site and french speaking , not a Great combo !
this motor was my dad fishing motor i had it seviced 10 years ago it ran ok but after a while Would start to die down and stop , the guy who serviced it told me the compression was low .so i stored it. Away and now i have time to look in to it , i would like to get it going again to use it at the cottage to go fishing.
I Will take compression before i do anything , Do You know if the rings are Still available for this model,i was told that They where not ? But maybe They are just jammed and need to be freed,Do You have a technique to attemp this with out taking the pistons out .
thank You for your site very good and fun to read
I'll do some looking and see If I can find the rings you need. Sierra does not list them, but they may be available from OMC.
UPDATE: It looks like the OMC part number for the rings is: 0378412
I was able to find them on e-bay LINK
This is a drawing from a 1968 3 hp motor which is basically the same thing:
If the pistons are stuck, I would remove the cylinder head and soak the pistons down with penetrating oil. Every few days, give the pistons a few taps with a hammer and piece of wood. If they don't move, give some more oil and wait a couple of days and try again. This has worked for me.
As far as whoever said the compression is low.... Please understand that these older motors were not designed with the same high compression as newer motors. I think compression around 70 or 80 psi would be good enough. Newer motors compress at 120 to 150 psi. I remember writing about this in one of my projects, but I would have to go back and find it.
Are you using our language selection and reading this site in French. If so, I would like to know what you think about the translation. I only read/speak English, but this site is available in 103 languages and it looks like several are being used!
I am looking for a lower cowling and front plate (where you adjust oil) for a 1964 Johnson 3hp jh-19. Any help would be great
eBay would be your best bet. You may find a good parts motor or someone who is tearing apart a similar motor and selling the parts. Also, you may see if you have a boat salvage yard in the area. I have seen many of these 3 HP motors with the covers missing. People just don't want to take the time to put them on, and they wind up losing them.
My sons (8 & 11) and I are starting to rebuild and Evinrude 3034. I have no previous history on this engine and am assuming the worst. Did a compression test last night and both cylinders were under 30lbs! Is there a trick to compression testing a 2 stroke? To what extent can I rebuild the power head? Are rings, pistons, bearings available? Should I have hope?
My oldest loves fishing and my hope was to rebuild and restore this little motor for him, hoping he will keep it for a long time.
30 pounds compression is not enough. I would try a different or better compression tester. Often you can borrow these from an auto parts store. The good ones have a fitting that screws into the spark plug hole. Compression testers with rubber stoppers don't seem to work so well.
Rings and pistons are next to impossible to find for that motor. You might be better off buying a second motor on eBay for the power head.
When setting your points using the HIGH point on the cam lobe IT IS NOT WHERE IT SAYS TOP. That is stamped on there so the cam lobe is put on with the proper side up at the factory. You can spin the crank with the flywheel nut on and go to where you see the drop off of the lobe THAT is the highest point of the cam. ALSO when you spin your outboard crank, ALWAYS spin it clockwise or you risk flipping the veins on you water impeller and they MAY NOT flip back so now you have no, or not enough, water pumping to your powerhead.
Reading article on conversion says on 1959 18hp I can use standard OMC fuel pump do I have to follow all other instructions like blocking off one port etc?
You can use a standard OMC fuel pump it will fit to the engine block. There are cases where this will work.
Power trim does not work up or down. We have a new trim motor that works when bypassed and jumped. We have a new trim switch and a new relay and harness. Still nothing. The relay clicks but does not engage the motor. Help!!
My Yamaha 25 HP had a similar problem at the beginning of the season. I found that the switches had corroded. I have two switches, one on the cowling, and the other on the tiller handle. I cleaned them up with some electrical contact cleaner and they seemed to get better with use. Electrical connections go bad after a while, especially if you ever had the boat in salt water, even once. Clean all connections and then put some dielectric grease on them.
I would use a voltmeter or test light to make sure you are getting 12 VDC at the motor when you engage the switch.
This summer I went through all the electrical connections on my fishing boat. After converting all the navigation and internal lights to diode lights, I found that they did not like questionable connections and old switches. Diode lights do not draw enough current to arc through a bad connection. I had to use a voltmeter to check voltages on both sides of all switches. Often I would lose voltage right at the switch and need to replace the switch itself. I may write up an article on marine electrical connections one of these days.
Wondering what your next outboard to work on May be
I've got that 1949 Johnson 10 HP QD sitting in my garage that I would like to get going. I just got through working on my Yamaha 25 4 cycle but did not document it. I have a 9.9/15 Johnson I also want to get running. I also have a 30-year-old 175 HP OMC I/O that I am going to go through so it will be reliable for the kids to play around with.
I have a daughter getting married in July, and I am taking care of an elderly father, so that has cut back on my garage time this summer. I have had a good season fishing though.
Behind the scenes, I've been plugging all the parts in from the Sierra Catalog, thousands of them, and will start going through the application tables to match them up with all the Evinrude/Johnson/OMC/BRP motors I have already entered. When I am done, you can find your motor and immediately see a list of parts for that motor. This was a much bigger project than I realized, but I keep plugging away. I also have some bugs to fix on the website itself.
Wish you well looking after your father as I am doing the same. It’s so easy to click on a motor and see the parts that are available for it. I spend so much time looking for parts at so many sites. Must take tones of time to punch all of that in to what you have set up. Great job.
I inherited this gem from my father and only wanted to give it a good tune up which is where the adventure began.
Thinking it would be a good idea to take the spark plug wires off with the bracket attached I broke a head bolt in the process. Then trying to fix that, I broke 3 more. EZouts were no help and I ended up with a Dremel grinding out the broken EZout and the rest of the bolt(s), and retapped the holes to spec. So far so good...
Now I want to put it all back together and can not get new head bolts. The marine dealer and small engine repair shop can do nothing without a part number. Maybe liability.
NAPA says use Grade 8 bolts.
Are there no compatible motors that would have a part number for the head bolts?
Also, any reference for gaskets (I have a new head gasket) for this little jewel?
my motor has no power when it’s in water but heaps of power when it’s on muffs had crabs cleaned still the same issue what could it be
Spark plugs or wires or ignition system
Could also be low compression
Need some expert direction please. I recently purchased a 5.5hp evinrude which has sat for some time. Compression is good but does not run. I began by rebuilding carb and replacing fuel lines and plugs. Had engine running for about 30 seconds and have not been able to restart since then. I also noticed excess gas sitting in carb opening in front of butterfly valve. I then removed carb and checked float valve and all gaskets and seals which looked ok. Still unable to start
Suggestions please? I have new ignition parts to install but since the motor ran I suspect there is a problem with fuel system
I know it would be a pain, but I suggest you take the carb apart and give it a good cleaning again. It sounds like something shook loose and plugged up one of the passageways. I've had to clean the carb 3 or 4 times before it would run right. Also adding an in-line fuel filter might help.
Will certainly open up carb again and redo once again. Funny thng was it started on second pull without much effort.
Thank you ttravis
I have a 1957 Johnson 5.5 that I'm trying to get running again. I've taken the carburetor off and gotten it cleaned. I saw the part about upgrading to a single line fuel system and thought I would try it. The question is when upgrading to a single line fuel pump, do the check valves you take off stay off? Or do you put them back on. I don't see a picture in the diagram of where they are put back on. This is my first attempt in trying to do something like this. Any information in this process would be greatly appreciated.
Yes. The reed valves stay off. One side gets plugged. The pulse from the other side drives the diaphragm of the fuel pump. It does not matter which side you choose. That old tank and hose are worth some money on e-Bay.
I need a carborator rebuild kit for a 1974 jhonson 70 hp. I can't find the kit for it all I can find is for a 1975 and up any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
I think this is what you need.
Looking for an operators manual for 1956 sea king 12 hp outboard motor. Model number GG9024A. Downloadable is preferred. Any ideas where I can get one?
Does anyone recognize this part. I had the engine worked on last year and the mechanic told me that it was this seal that had failed due to improper winterizing. I had the engine fixed and paid a licensed mechanic to winterize - only to have the same problem occur again this Spring. Any help would be appreciated! I was told that it is a seal from the water intake re. cooling the engine. Regards Gord.
Could it be this 18-1734 Thermostat Seal (fits your motor)?
Hi I just recently purchased a 1975 Evinrude 6 Hp- seems to work ok but I need a cowling gasket , but I guess they don't make them anymore - any suggestions on where I could purchase one?
I have just aquired a SeaBee and was wondering what they might go for nowadays. I have no idea if it runs or not. Just pulled it out of an old fishermans garage. I cant use the motor as California has all but outlawed all 2 stroke motors back in 99'
Any help on this would be greatly appreaciated.
Hi. Looking for a water pump kit that includes the impeller housing for a 1956 5.5 hp.
Took apart the lower unit today and found that the housing was very rough, pitted, and scored.
check out laingsoutboards.com. web site says call for availability though. good luck
I am working on a 5.5 hp Evinrude 5512 from 1956. In browsing around this site, I noticed a roller/follower on the lever that rides on the spark advance profile on the magneto carrier.
Did the 1956 5512's not have roller to follow the cam profile? Mine doesn't, and there's no evidence that it ever did, such as a groove to retain a snap ring to keep a roller in place.
The part that rides on the lever looks to be made of aluminum or something pretty soft as it is quite worn.
Hello kzwieg, I too am working on a 1956 Evinrude 5.5 hp. 5512. and today , Sept 6 , 2018 ,I saw the roller on this site while studying the carbuerator removal, so I noticed that mine also has no wheel on the arm that rides on the large aluminum cam under the magneto plate, and that the cam is worn at its initial contact with the steel arm from not having said wheel to roll rather than rub against the cam. This wear would not advance the spark at the time it should be advanced when it is first supposed to be advanced at the begining low part of the cam, that is at the begining of throttle speed just around trolling speed.The only evidence of a wheel on mine is a hole right about at the bottom of where the roller would sit and provide for a cotter pin , but no cir-clip groove at the top to hold the roller from flying off and getting lost.
Hi all. I'm restoring a 1956 Johnson Sea Horse 5.5 and it needs a new glass fuel filter on the bottom of the carburetor. Where in the heck would I find this? I'm kinda stuck moving forward if I cannot find a replacement. Any help GREATLY appreciated!
check out laingsoutboards.com he will have it. tell him steve blackmore with the 57 7.5 hp evinrude sent you
Saw your demo of 5.5 Johnson 1958 impeller change.
is process same for big brother RDS-20? 35hp 1958 Johnson? Pull power head to get to impeller?
I've done all the ignition repair with new coils, condenser, plugs, points, etc on my Evinrude Light Twin 1955 Model 3012. Still not getting spark. Any clues where to look next?
Did you replace the plug wires? If so, did you get solid core wire? Please send some pictures.
No, I'm a novice and only followed the steps. They look OK, but are probably original so may be bad. Do you have recommendation of where to buy?
Here is the ignition picture
I bought mine at Tractor Supply. They need to be old style solid core plug wires, not the newer graphite core stuff.
Both sides of that ignition operate independently, so whatever the problems are, is the same on both sides, making one bad plug wire unlikely.
Can you send me a better picture from top view if that ignition so I can check out the wiring? The picture you provided I can't tell how you have everything wired.
Thanks, here are two views of the wiring
The coil and condenser wires look correct in your picture. Do you have an ohm meter and know how to use it? I would test to make sure that your green coil wire is not grounded. I would also take a look and probably replace the spark plug wire. Make sure you get solid core, and not graphite core spark plug wire.
This is one of those situations where if everything is correct, it has to work.
I assume point gap and timing tests out ok?