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I have looked everything over carefully and cannot figure out why once my whole motor is reassembled everything in the upper unit is free and normal but the pull start is very hard and when trying to spin the prop manually it is very hard. There is no grinding or knocking noise, nothing seems out of place it is just not free spinning... any help is awesome.
Did you put in new seals? Somethimes new seals can make things seem tight for a while. Same with a new impeller. Give it a few hours to break in and see if things improve.
I have not redone seals or anything in the lower unit at all that is why I am so confused.
What happens if you try to turn the flywheel by hand, or wrap a rope around it to try to rope start it the old fashioned way?
Also what happens if you take the lower unit off and try to start it?
I'm replacing coils and points/condenser on a 1956 Johnson CD-13A 5.5hp twin.
I'm attempting to set the point gamp and timing by the voltmeter method.
Where do you put the throttle to check the timing and set the point gap? I've seen some say idle, and others say WOT. Some say it makes no difference, but that doesn't make sense to me.
The throttle moves the plate and the timing marks, so it has to make a difference where the throttle is.
What am I missing ? thanks
I just did a 3 hp lightwin for the first time and that sorta threw me until I looked and saw that although the plate moves in relation to the cam, the points stay with the cam, so it doesn't matter. As a matter of fact, if you overshoot your mark while setting the timing, if you started in the "start" position, you can move your points across the cam in either direction. Anyway, I decided to ignore the position and when I was done, the motor I got for free ran like a top...about $30 in tuneup parts.
So, bottom line, it really doesn't matter, but may be more convenient in some positions than others, based on the task at hand. Happy motoring!